Viva Mexico
Posted on 12-05-06
by Kim Ellis

The hidden heart and beauty of Mexico often lies within plain walls.  From the outside, Don Quijote University in Guanajuato is nothing special.  Typical of older Mexican architecture, the school presents a sober, reserved face to the street.  All a passer-by can see is the school’s name in ceramic tile above a solid wooden door.  Ah, but pass inside and the building reveals its secrets.

When I stepped through that door on July 17, I was already experiencing sensory overload.  On this, my second journey into Mexico, I was prepared for the barrage to my senses.  In fact, I was anticipating the onslaught with pleasure.  Mexico is the extreme of colorful, noisy, and odorous and I love it all.  The houses wear chalky pink, lavender and ochre.  The streets smell like cologne or fresh bread or fruit and always the ubiquitous Fabuloso brand cleaner that breathes out of doorways and splashes onto the sidewalks.  And there’s the noise: roosters crowing, dogs barking, mariachi music or Mexican rap, and the kids playing soccer.  Being in Mexico is as sweet and rich as fresas con crema (strawberries and cream,) a true immersion in the juice of life.

Upon entering the lobby of Don Quijote, I felt my heart open as my eyes delighted in the polished stone stairway lined with potted flowers and green vines.  Above our heads hung many-pointed metal stars.  A milky sunshine filtered down from the skylight.  And the walls were Frida Kahlo yellow, trimmed with bright cobalt blue and pumpkin orange.  What a glorious place to study Spanish!

My husband, Pat, and I enrolled in the intensive Spanish language course for two weeks.  We had two excellent teachers and we studied for five hours each day.  In addition to our scheduled class, we attended lectures on Mexican culture, a salsa dance class, and a social hour at a café where don Quijote students practiced their Spanish. 

Classes were small to allow more time for oral practice.  Our class consisted of ten students: a Swiss woman studying pre-med, a German man, and four other Norteamericanos beside Pat and myself.  In two short weeks we achieved a rudimentary understanding of four verb tenses, much vocabulary, and had a great time in the process. 

The city of  Guanajuato is a cultural mecca.  It is best known for its Don Quijote theater festival in October.  Founded in 1548, Guanajuato became a wealthy colonial town because of its silver mines.  It is said that the silver from La Valenciana Mine alone supplied more than half of all the silver delivered to the monarchs of Spain.  Guanajuato is unique because of its tunnel and stair streets.  Our hospedaje, or hostel, was in the middle of a narrow stair street.  There being no access by vehicle, Pat and I traipsed up and down the 204 steps (he counted them) at least twice a day. 

During our stay, two festivals were held.  One, a celebration of the medieval past, sported a parade, sword combats and archery contests.  Following that came the short film festival.  Nightlife in Guanajuato was lively.  The streets were crowded with tourists and residents strolling, sampling all the tempting foods available, and watching the mimes and jugglers on stilts.

In the morning and early afternoon, before our Spanish classes began, Pat and I explored the museums and browsed the stores showing the amazing variety of crafts produced in Mexico.  Guanajuato is the birthplace of artist Diego Rivera.  Some of his great works can be seen in his childhood home, now a lovely museum.  It was in that museum’s store where I overheard an American woman saying to her friend, “You know, most people in the United States think Mexico has no culture.” 

Our two-week sojourn ended all too soon.  If I did not accomplish my goal of fluency in Spanish, I certainly moved closer.  Already I’m fantasizing about next summer.  Don Quijote offers programs in various cities in Spain, Mexico, and even Peru.  Pat thinks he wants to try Sevilla, in Spain.  As for me, I left my heart in colorful, noisy, beautiful Mexico.

For more information about Don Quijote University go to the website at www.donquijote.org

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