Susan E.B. Schwartz 

Susan E.B. Schwartz grew up outside New York City, and after graduating from Harvard, began working fulltime in the corporate world (biotechnology venture capital and corporate recruiting).  In 1990, Schwartz began rock climbing in the Shawangunk Mountains in New Paltz, NY, known as the "Gunks," and soon afterwards sent her first article in “cold” -- on bouldering in Central Park —  to Climbing Magazine.  

She went on to become a regular contributor to both Rock and Ice and Climbing, as well as writing for Runner’s World, Harvard Magazine, and Outside.  Her articles included the Climbing feature, “True Gunk” —  profiling moderate, classic Gunks routes —  but her favorite subject was always the fascinating and varied personalities who make up the Gunks climbing  community.   

In 1994, Rock and Ice asked Schwartz to write a series of profiles on leading Gunks climbers, one of whom was Hans Kraus, then 89.  Afterwards, Schwartz grew convinced there was a richer, more complex story in  Kraus’ life than could be captured in a magazine article.  For the next ten years, she focused her writing efforts on her first book, Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus (2005), which became a Banff Mountain Book Festival finalist.

A member of the American Alpine Club Literary Committee, Schwartz is a former member of the American Alpine Club Board of Directors, scuba-diving instructor, and shipwreck divemaster.  An avid fitness enthusiast, Schwartz also skateboards and snowboards, and lives with her husband —a fellow rock climber she met in the Gunks — with their two young children and mutt, Zeke.